That Was Jersey
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CHANNEL ISLANDS

The Royal visit to Jersey, 1846

by John Le Capelain

Like Philip John Ouless, John Le Capelain (1812 - 1848) also made a souvenir book for Queen Victoria's visit to Jersey in September 1846. He had been partly responsible for the decorations in town, and he was commissioned by the States to provide 26 water-colours to present to the Queen. These are the pictures included in his book, showing scenes of Jersey, and also illustrating the actual visit. The text is from the book and is written in delightful Victorian prose.

The book is dedicated to Her Majesty, and includes a list of those who subscribed to the printing of it. The title page is illustrated.

The Queen's Visit

Title page illustration
"The unexpected visit of Her Majesty and Prince Albert to our sister Isle of Guernsey had awakened in the loyal hearts of her subjects in Jersey the anxious expectation of a like honour; it was, therefore, with heartfelt sorrow that intelligence was received of the return of the royal squadron to England. This dash to our hopes was soon to be forgotten in the joyful anticipation of a promised visit in the course of the ensuing week, fortunately giving time to prepare a fitting welcome.
"The States of the Island were convened, and a committee appointed to make arrangements for the approaching ceremony. The new South Pier, just completed, afforded a locale most appropriate for the purpose: the vast sweep of the promenade above and surrounding the quay offered every facility for the erection of many tiers of gradually rising seats, capable of containing upwards of six thousand spectators. For the reception of Her Majesty one of the pillared recesses under the promenade was decorated; the interior, lined with crimson damask, bordered with gold fringe, relieved the ultramarine colour of the roof; between each of the columns hung festoons of the choicest flowers; in two niches on either side of the recess were placed busts of the Queen and Prince Albert, and above them waved the royal standard of England and the Jersey flag, richly wrought in silk.
"In the town all was activity; triumphal arches spanned every street, whilst flags, mottoed banners, and floral crowns, were ready to be launched from every window. Such were the preparations which the enthusiasm of the inhabitants had made for Her Majesty's reception. Towards evening, and in the middle of all this joyful labour, two guns, fired from Fort Regent, sent thrilling through every heart the welcome news that the royal squadron was in sight."
   

The arrival of the Royal Squadron

Arrival of the Royal Squadron
"The workman dropped his hammer, the tradesman closed his shop, the busy and the idle all rushed to the pier, the esplanade, and to every point from which the royal squadron could be seen. The day, hitherto clouded, lifted its grey mantle as the royal squadron turned Noirmont Point, the setting sun throwing its last rays over the scene with magical effect. The anchors were dropped, and the vessels berthed for the night. The civil and military authorities waited on Her Majesty, to tender their homage and receive commands for the landing, which it was decided should be the next day at eleven o'clock. Never did a more beauitiful day shine on our beloved Island! At an early hour the country had streamed its thousands into town. The militia were under arms, lining the road Her Majesty was to pass."

Landing of Her Most Gracious Majesty and Prince Albert

Landing of her Majesty
"A royal salute from Elizabeth Castle announced that the Queen had left the Victoria and Albert, and was approaching; every eye was fixed on the Fairy, eager to catch a first glimpse of our beloved Sovereign who, for the first time, landed on this most ancient portion of her dominions. Amid the roar of cannon and the cheers of thousands, the sweet voices of two hundred choristers were scarcely heard, who, singing the national anthem, strewed Her Majesty's path with flowers. After resting a few minutes, Her Majesty rose to receive the Addresses presented by the States and Militia of the Island. Passing the "guard of honour", Her Majesty and Royal Consort approached the carriage, which then slowly moved onwards towards town, where demonstrations of equal loyalty were everywhere shewn."

Her Majesty receiving the keys of Mont Orgueil Castle

Receiving the keys of Mont Orgueil
"After a pleasant drive through the parishes of St Saviour's and St Martin's, the royal cortège arrived under the ivy-covered walls of Mont Orguiel castle: the keys of this ancient fortress were then presented to Her Majesty, who, returning them, ordered the gates to be opened, and the royal party drove into the courtyard of the old building."

The platform and keep of Mont Orgueil Castle

Platform and keep of Mont Orgueil
"Her Majesty, attended by her suite and some of the Island authorities, ascended to the platform, and much enjoyed the beautiful scene there offered to her view. Her Majesty was particularly struck by the nearness of the French coast. His Royal Highness Prince Albert visited the various apartments contained in the donjon, amongst others, the cell where the celebrated Prynne is said to have been confined."
"The royal party then left the castle, and proceeded towards town, in passing through which an incident occurred which ought not to be omitted. The militia, who lined the streets Her Majesty had to pass, were at their stations, awaiting her return; but the royal cortège came in by another route."

Re-embarkation of Her Majesty and Prince Albert

Re-embarkation of Her Majesty
" When these loyal soldiers heard the cheering ahead of their lines, they broke their ranks, and rushed pell-mell after the royal carriage to the pier, where Her Majesty and Prince Albert were received with the same honours as at the landing."

Departure of the Royal Squadron

Departure of the Royal Squadron
"Embarked aboard the Fairy, Her Majesty left the shores of Jersey amid the regrets of the whole population, whose most heartfelt wish was, that it might not be the last visit of Her Majesty and Royal Consort to their beautiful Island.
"Early next morning the royal squadron wighed anchor and returned to England."
The scenery of Jersey
"The effect of scenery is so much influenced by the atmosphere, that a short description of its effects on that of the Island ought not to be omitted in this Work.
"Surrounded by the sea, Jersey is almost every night shrouded in a mist, which the rising sun in dissolving tinges with prismatic colours. From the eastern coast is best seen the splendour of sunrise - the cold, white light of dawn silently creeping up the dark and starry sky, extinguishing their pale fires amid its rosy and increasing light, - lines of golden brightness fret the clouds; the sun is near - is up; a stream of light dances over the pale blue sea and sparkles on the wet and pebbly beach: as the mists disappear each object becomes more defined, and every thing shines in dewy freshness. As the day advances, the sea - true mirror of the sky - reflects its deeper blue; left bare by the receding tide, large tracts of sand and rocks of varied hue have quite changed the aspect of the scene: from the sun's warm rays the green, cool valleys offer delightful retreats, - narrow, winding, and well wooded, they abound in scenes of perfect sylvan beauty. Branching in every direction, shady lanes, lined by graceful elms, lead to every part of the Island. Along the western coast the glowing colours of the setting sun are reflected from each rocky headland and sandy bay, blending their rich hues with the pearly tints of the rising moon. During the equinoctial gales, the storm-swept sea shivers its wild waves into glittering fragments along the rocky coast, whilst the grey clouds cast their driving shadows over sea and land.
"In the Drawings these various effects of sunrise, noon, sunset, twilight, and storm, are given."

The Town and Harbour of St Helier

Town and Harbour of St Helier
"Seen from the sea it presents a line of sea-wall (the Esplanade), overtopped by numerous houses, and backed by woody and villa-sprinkled heights. On the right of the view rises the imposing granite-built mass of Fort Regent, beneath whose cannon-mounted walls is the old harbour of St Helier's, once thought sufficient for the exigencies of trade, but now destined to form only a small portion of a larger and more comprehensive plan; part of which, just completed, was the spot chosen for the landing of Her Most Gracious Majesty, and since named "Victoria Harbour".
"This town offers a most extraordinary example of what trade, unchecked by fiscal regulations, can do: from a mere village, St Helier's has risen to great commercial importance, possessing shipping to the amount of 30,000 tons. The integrity of its merchants, the excellence of its ships and seamen, have secured for it an honourable renown. The town itself, of recent growth, possesses no ancient building except the Town Church, a heavy specimen of provincial architecture of the thirteenth century. It is its well-paved streets, elegant shops, and commodious markets, which, with the comparative cheapness of every thing, renders it a welcome place of residence. In the Drawing it is shewn as seen from the new pier (Victoria Harbour); the effect - a passing storm."

The Hermitage

The hermitage
"On a wild sea-beaten rock are the remains of what once was the cell of St Helier, the hermit. This holy man met his death from the hands of a band of Norman pirates, whose ferocity he attempted to rebuke and whose idolatries he denounced; receiving for answer the blow of a battle-axe, he died a martyr.
"In the Drawing the hermitage and surrounding rocks are shewn at low tide, under the effect of a coming storm."

St Aubin's Bay

St Aubin's Bay
"At each extremity of the magnificent sweep of this bay are situated the towns of St Aubin's and St Helier's. Luxuriantly wooded, and interspersed with numerous villas, it offers, when viewed from the heights of Noirmont, a scene of exquisite beauty - where rocks, woods, towns, harbour, castles, shipping, and the blue sea, contribute to form a panorama whichc few localities can surpass.
"The Drawing includes a portion of this fine view - the harbour of St Aubin's, its castle, and, in the distance, Elizabeth Castle and the town of St Helier's. The effect given is of a summer's noon."

Portelet Bay

Portelet Bay
"A quiet rock-encircled nook, where few sounds are ever heard, save of the splashing wave or sea-brid's cry, upon whose yellow sands foot-prints are seldom seen. In the centre of the baay is a rocky islet and martello tower, beyond which a mass of bold rocks terminate the view.
"The effect of the Drawing is that of a summer's twilight, whose softening tints are shed over sea and land."

St Brelade's Church

St Brelade's Church
"This beautiful bay was chosen for the site of the first Christian church erected in the Island, and consecrated in the year 1111. In its cemetery is a small chapel la chapelle ès pécheurs) of a still earlier date: simple and unadorned, it is only remarkable for its antiquity and a curious fresco painting on the roof, now nearly effaced, but possessing much interest to the student of early art.
"The situation of the church is most romantic; the ancient churchyard, fringed with rugged elms and washed by the sea, which every tide beats against the mouldering wall, gives it a character distinct from that of every other religious building in the island. The fine sands, transparent water, and fantastic rocks, however, soncitute the peculiar charm of this bay.
"In the Drawing on the right is seen the church, its trees, and old sea-wall; amd a little beyond is a rude harbour for fishing-boats, left dry by the receding tide, whilst the cavernous point of "La Fret", seen through a passing shower, gleams in the sunlight."

St Brelade's Bay

St Brelade's Bay
"Seen from the heights behind the church, it assumes the appearance of an inland lake, bordered by a line of rocky coast, contrasting its wildness with the sylvan beauty of the nearer valley; amongst whose trees, of a summer's evening, the wild notes of the thrush blend in soft harmony with the murmur of the distant sea."

The Corbière Rocks

Corbière Rocks
"Worn into the most fantastic shapes by the fury of the storm-swept sea, these rocks are represented in strong relief against a sunset sky."

St Owen's Bay

St Owen's Bay
"Presents a dreary line of sandy coast, lined with martello towers, where the storm-vexed waves are dashed into foam on the shingly beach. In the Drawing the effect given is that of an approaching storm."

Grosnez Castle

Grosnez Castle
"On a promontory of wildest grandeur, a solitary arch and mouldering wall is all that remains of an ancient building. The Drawing shews this time-worn arch in dark relief against a moonlight sky."

Cave at Grève au Lançon

Grève au Lançon
"Amongst the many caves of this small bay, the one represented is the most striking. Before its dark, dripping entrance stands a natural obelisk of weather-stained granite, and beyond, through an arch of Nature's turning, is seen the splash of a small but beautiful waterfall, whose music, solitary as the curlew's note, adds to the wildness of the scene."

Plémont

Plémont
"A bold headland, jutting into the sea, whose waves have scooped its rugged sides into several caverns. In the Drawing, a faint gleam of watery sunshine relieves the huge mass against a stormy sky."

Bonne-Nuit Harbour

Bonne-Nuit Harbour
"Encircled by abrupt, high and rocky cliffs, this primitive harbour affords on its shingly beach precarious shelter to a few fishing-boats. A small fort and military barrack somewhat mar the character of the scene.
"The view shews the bold cliffs and fort, lit by the last rays of a threatening sunset."

Bouley Bay

Bouley Bay
"This bay presents the boldest of our coast scenery; as you emerge from the quiet green lane which leads to it, it strikes the eye with its bleak, barren look and grand outline. The grey rocks, covered with heather, fern, and furze, blend their various tints into a warm brown hue, beautifully contrasting with the colour of the deep blue sea. The view given shews the huge hill crowned by the remains of an old guard-house, whence many a watchful look has been directed to the neighbouring and hostile coast; under its shadow reposes the quiet harbour, where fishing-boats are sheltered and protected by a small fort of modern date. On the horizon is visible "Cap de la Hague" on the French coast, and the Island of Alderney.
"The effect of the Drawing is the coming on of a thunder-storm, harmonizing not inaptly with the wildness of the scene."

Rozel Bay

Rozel Bay
"Two beautiful valleys, and a coast-road lead to this bay, which, seen from any point of view, offers most delightful combinations of wood, rock, and sea. A small well-built harbour affords shelter to numerous fishing-boats.
"In the Drawing is seen the harbour at low tide, whilst an autumnal sunset sheds its rich glow over the scene."

St Catherine's Bay

St Catherine's bay
"Surrounded by furze and heather-covered hills, intermingled with grey rock and luxuriant foliage, it charms the eye by its quiet beauty; amongst the woody recesses of its deep dell, light, wreathing smoke betrays the fisherman's dwelling, whose boat on the shore or sailing on the blue breezy sea adds life and interest to the scene.
"In the Drawing the bay is seen shining in the light of the morning sun."

Anne-Port

Anne-Port
"All that wood, rock, and sea, can do to produce the beautiful are here united, - morning, noon, or evening, thios little bay is equally enchanting.
"In the Drawing, a gleam of sunlight through a passing shower enhances the beauty of the scene."

Mont Orgueil Castle

Mont Orgueil Castle from the north
"Rises from the sea a huge pyramid of embattled rock, whose well-defended walls have sustained the attack og many an assaulting foe; amongst the most celebrated of these was Bertrand du Gueselin, Constable of France, who beseiged it for some time, and, after reducing the outworks, was foiled in all his attempts on the donjon: on the appearance of an English fleet sent to its relief, he retired.
"In the Drawing its dark and solemn mass is shewn under the effect of a storm-threatening sunset."

Mont Orgueil Castle

Mont Orgueil Castle across the harbour
"Seen through a morning mist, the antique mass is shewn towering in quiet grandeur above the modern and busy harbour, where numerous oyster-smacks await the flowing tide to proceed on their way to the French coast."

The Valley of the Queen's Farm

Valley of the Queen's Farm
"One of the finest in the Island - narrow, winding, and skirted with abundant wood, it offers on a summer's day a delightful retreat from the noontide heat.
"A portion of the valley shewn in the Drawing belongs to the Crown, hence known as the 'Queen's Farm'."

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